cutting fabric hexagons tutorial

I've had a lot of questions lately about how I cut my fabric hexagons so I thought I'd write a little tutorial for you.  This is a super easy way to cut a lot of hexagons quickly ... (recommended for English paper-piecing only).

Step 1

Measure the height of a hexagon template - mine is 7/8".

Step 2

Add 1/2" to the measurement from Step 1 (for seam allowance) and cut a strip of fabric that width - mine is 1-3/8".

Step 3

Lay a template, centered and a little bit away from the end of the strip.

Step 4

Measure 1/4" away from the top left edge of the hexagon. 

Trim the corner.

Step 5

Measure 1/4" away from the bottom left edge of the hexagon and trim.

Step 6

Repeat for the top and bottom right edges of the hexagon. 

You are essentially cutting an "X".  This "X" conveniently forms the left edges of the next hexagon. 

Nice, eh?

Step 7

Take the cut fabric hexagon and lay it on the strip of fabric, matching up the point on the left side.  Use this first hexagon as your cutting template from now on.

Step 8

Cut the next "X".

Step 9

Repeat as necessary.

By the way, I usually stack as many as 6 fabric strips at a time ... I can cut a lot of hexagons quickly!

Also, don't worry about being super duper accurate ... these fabric hexagons will be basted onto perfectly shaped English Paper Piecing templates so you don't need to be as accurate as if you were machine piecing them.

I hope you find this tutorial useful.

partial seam/log cabin tutorial

The log cabin blocks I'm making for this quilt aren't "true" log cabins. 

These blocks are called ... uh ... hmm ... I can't remember what they're called!  And I can't seem to find it online or in any of my books.  Nutty nutbar.  If you know what this block is called, please tell me.  For now I'll call it a partial seam log cabin block.

Anyhow, if you look carefully at my block below you'll see that all 4 "logs" in each row around the center square are the same length rather than the small, medium, medium, large of a traditional log cabin block.

I think this block version isn't very common because partial seams are required.  And I'll come clean now by saying if I had to make this quilt all over again, I wouldn't bother doing it this way - I'd just go the regular log cabin route. 

But I got it in my head that because this quilt started with colours inspired by my blog header, I wanted to make it with a design that also references my banner. 

My first thought was to go with hexagons ... but I was afraid I might be overdosing ya'll on those, so I went with the little log cabin blocks - which I had just so happened to make this way.

There is method to my madness ... but madness it is. 

Seems like lots of you want to join me here in craycrayville and have asked me to show you how to make this log cabin block with partial seams.  I will warn you now that my small center squares are fiddly, but not impossible.  Okay?

To start, here are the cutting measurements I used:

• Center square = 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"
• First row logs = 1" x 1-3/4" 
• Second row logs = 1" x 2-3/4"
• Third row logs = 1" x 3-3/4"

• Finished block size = 3-3/4".  (And my sashing strips are cut 1-1/4" wide, if you're interested.)

Step 1 - With right sides together, lay a 1-3/4" log on the center square, lining up the top edges.  Starting at the top edge, sew a 1/4" seam that is 5/8" long.  Do NOT sew to the end of the square.

(Other side so you can see how far down the square to sew.)

Step 2 - Press the log away from the middle, but only the section that has been stitched to the square.  Do NOT press the entire log ... you don't want a crease on the unstitched part of the log.

Step 3 - Add the second 1-3/4" log across the top edge.

Step 4 - Add the third 1-3/4" log to the left side.

Step 5 - Add the fourth 1-3/4" log to the bottom edge, tucking the first log out of the way.

Step 6 - Now you need to finish the partial seam for the first log.  But here's where it gets a little fiddly.  Because the center square is so small, getting the sewing machine needle into the right spot is tricky.

To make it easier, I cut a little slit in the seam allowance, about 2 stitches up from the end of the partial seam.  Now the partial seam lays flat and is easy to sew.

Complete sewing the seam.

Press.

The first "row" is done.

Step 7 - Repeat Steps 1 & 2 for the first 2-3/4" log.  This time, sew the partial seam about half way down the log.

Remember to only press the stitched portion of the log.

Step 8 - Add the second 2-3/4" log to the top edge.

Step 9 - Add the third 2-3/4" log to the left side.

Step 10 - Add the fourth 2-3/4" log to the bottom edge, keeping the first log out of the way.

Step 11 - Complete the partial seam and press.  The partial seam is easier to deal with this time because the seam is longer and there's enough room to stitch without clipping the seam allowance.

Step 12 - The third row - with 3-3/4" logs - goes on the same way as the second row.

And there you have it.

After a few of these blocks you'll be able to do partial seams in your sleep. 

Fabric & Elastic Watch Strap Tutorial

I received so many lovely tutorial requests I couldn't not write one.

You will need:

• watch face
• fabric scrap
• matching thread
• elastic
• scissors
• hand sewing needle
• 1 safety pin
• 2 straight pins
• ruler
• sewing machine

Step 1

To determine the elastic width, measure the space between the pin holders on the watch face.  If the elastic is wider, it's harder to thread the finished strap thru.  If the elastic is narrower, it will look a little funny.

Step 2

The length of elastic depends on the size of the watch face and the size of the wrist that will wear it.

To determine the elastic length, thread one end of the elastic thru the space by 1/2".  Pin in place.

Thread the remaining end of the elastic thru the other side.  Put the watch on the wrist and pull the elastic to fit.  Add another 1/2" to the end and trim.

Step 3

To determine the fabric width, double the width of the elastic and add 1/2" for seam allowance.

Step 4

To determine the fabric length, stretch the elastic (almost) as far as it will go and measure.  That is the length you need for a very fully gathered band.  You may want it more or less full.

Step 5

Fold the fabric strip in half lengthwise, right sides together and sew down the length with a 1/4" seam.

Step 6

Press the seam open.

Try not to press the edges of the fabric.  This tube will be turned right-side out and you might have a little trouble reversing those press lines.  I just tipped my iron so the point was on the ironing board and the wide end was up in the air.  Or if you have a mini iron, you are in luck.

Step 7

To turn the fabric tube right side out, attach a safety pin to one end, insert the pin into the tube and work it through to the other end.

Step 8

Fold the ends inside about 1/2".  Press the tube with the seam in the middle.  That middle seam will become the wrong side of the strap when it's attached to the watch.

Step 9

Attach the safety pin to one end of the elastic.

Step 10

Thread the safety pin into one end of the fabric tube.  Work the pin about half way into the tube.

Step 11

When the tail end of the elastic gets to the starting end of the tube, pin it in place with the end of the elastic about 1/4" inside the tube (indicated by the needle).  Pin that end of the elastic in place. 

If you miss and pull the elastic in too far, start over.

Step 12

With a sewing machine, stitch that pinned end of the elastic in place with several back and forth seams about 1/2" from the end of the fabric.

Step 13

Finish threading the elastic thru the other end of the fabric tube and anchor it the same way you did the first end.

Step 14

Feed one end of the strap through the space between the pin and the watch face about 1/2".

Step 15

Fold the 1/2" excess onto the strap and pin in place.

Step 16

Hand stitch the end to the strap with a small whip stitch.

Step 17

Double-check the fit of the strap, pin and hand stitch the other end in place.

That's it!

As I was preparing this tutorial, I noticed Pooh and Piglet were tracking me in real time. 

Too funny.  I only mention it to convince you that this makeover project is really super quick and easy.  I hope you give it a try!

Little Hexagons Tutorial

I heard all your lovely requests for a "little hexagons" tutorial last week (watch strap tutorial to follow soon!) so here it is.  I hope you find it helpful.

I want to start by saying the technique for English paper-piecing (EPP) small hexagons is no different than for larger ones.  In fact, EPP is the same regardless of template size or shape.

And there are a few EPP basting variations out there, but I wrote this tutorial to show you how I do it ... with glue.

Step 1 - Cut out a paper template (or buy precut templates) the size you want your hexagon to be when it's finished.  Regular computer printer paper works just fine.  The precut templates are a lightweight card stock - a little stiffer than regular paper, but still very easy to pierce with a needle. 

Then cut out a piece of fabric that is 1/4" larger than the paper template on all sides.  Accuracy is not critical for cutting the fabric.  You should have at least 1/4" seam allowance, but if it's more don't worry.  Unless I'm fussy cutting a hexagon, I usually stack up to 6 scraps of fabric, lay a template hexagon on top and cut my 1/4" allowance - based on the template - with a rotary cutter.  You can just as easily use scissors.  Some people like to make a fabric cutting template. 

My paper hexagon templates here are 1/2" which refers to the length of one side of the hexagon. 

Step 2 - Lay the paper template centered on the wrong side of the fabric hexagon.

Step 3 - Using a fabric glue pen (I use Fons & Porter) add a small dot of glue to each side of the paper template.  It goes on blue but dries clear. 

If you're working with larger hexagons (or any other EPP shape) you may want to use a few dots of glue per side.

Step 4 - Fold two opposite sides of the fabric hexagon onto the paper template (at the same time) and press the seam allowances into the glue to make them stick.

Repeat for the remaining sides.

Step 5 - Make a bunch.  (To make a flower you need one center and 6 petals.)

Step 6 - Take a center hexagon and a petal hexagon and hold them right sides together, lining up to edges.

Step 7 - Thread a needle (I use Sharps) with a color that will blend (if using contrasting colors, match the darker fabric) and knot the end.

Starting at one corner, sew the two edges together with a whip stitch.  Do not catch the paper template with your needle - just grab a little bit of fabric that is on the fold.

The tinier your stitches are, the better.  (Here's an example with a high contrast thread so you can see.)

Step 8 - When one edge is complete, fold the hexagons open and lay a second hexagon onto the center - right sides together.

Sew the next edge of the center to one edge of the second hexagon together with a whip stitch.

Step 9 - Repeat until all 6 petal hexagons are attached to the center hexagon.

Step 10 - On the back side, gently pull the glued seam allowance of the center hexagon away from the paper template.  (Remember, you only need a little glue.  The more glue you use, the harder it is to separate the fabric from the paper.)

Remove the paper template.  Most (if not all?) of the glue seems to stay stuck to the paper, not the fabric.

Some of my quilting friends do not like glue basting.  They would rather spend a little more time thread-basting because it's cleaner to pull out than to peel glued fabric off of paper.  And sometimes the seam allowance will fray a bit - which is not a problem because the fabric is already sewn in.  But for me, I really like the speed of glue basting.  It's a personal choice.

Step 10 - Fold the center hexagon to stitch the petals together.

That's it. 

You can join together as many hexagons as you like.  Remove a template when all sides of the shape have been whip-stitched to another piece.

Get creative and make beautiful designs with fabric placement.

It's not at all complicated.  It just takes time.  You will find that one little flower goes together very quickly and you can have a bunch made in an afternoon. 

EPP is the perfect hand sewing activity to do when you don't want to think or do anything that requires much concentration, but you just want to keep your hands busy.  It's portable too.  Just prep a bunch of hexies, toss them in a container with a needle, thread & scissors and you're good to go!

How to Make an Embroidered Signature Block

After I posted this photo of a quilt top I finished a few weeks ago, I got a lot of questions about how to make an embroidered signature block.

So I thought I'd write a tutorial for you.  (I've put a link under Tutorials on the right side of this page for future reference.)

No, I confess this is not my handwriting. 

My handwriting is terrible.  I blame it on college note-taking in the "olden days" before laptops when all we had was paper and pens.

Yes, I could take my time and write out something semi-decent.  But it never looks nice enough to me.

Ironically, however, I encourage other people to use their own handwriting because ... well, I think we can all agree that it's more ... special, right? 

(And yes, I am familiar with the definition of the word "hypocrate".) 

I love seeing things written by my own ancestors.  But I'm just not proud enough of my own penmanship to want to immortalize it with embroidery.

So I cheat - just a little bit - and use computer fonts. If you'd like to cheat too, here's how.

First, I think it's important to note that fonts have personalities.  Non-crafty people think the idea of fonts having personalities is ridiculous.  They don't get it.  Kinda like how I don't get chemistry or football or jazz music, I suppose.  But fonts can convey mood, style and tone.  I'm not kidding.  So use them to your advantage.

I always start with the fonts on my computer.  But when I get an idea for a look that can't be represented by one of those fonts, I go Googling for "free fonts".  The stuff that's out there!  Whoa!  Sometimes it takes a while to find the right font if you've got something specific in mind. 

Also try searching for fonts on Pinterest.  There are lots of font boards over there too, and many of the original posts also have links to the font source.

Inspired by the colors in the fabric - especially the blue/green and tomato red - I started looking for a font with a fun, retro vibe.

I decided on a 50s /60s era style that reminded me of a diner ... or the tv show "Bewitched".  I found this font called Stalemate, downloaded it, opened Word on my computer, typed my text onto 2 lines, centered them, adjusted the font size to fit my block and printed it on regular paper. 

Voila!  My customized embroidery template.

Then I used a Micron Pigma Pen to trace my design onto the fabric.

I could have matched my embroidery floss to any color found in the quilt.  But I wanted my stitches to be bright and the words easy to read, so I went with the red. 

When choosing a font to embroider, size matters!  The smaller the font - and the less space you have to apply your text onto the fabric - the simpler it should be. 

Now I prefer stitching with 2 plies of floss most of the time.  If I have a large, thin font, I might go with 3 plies.  Or if I have a tiny, delicate font - like I used here for my Farmer's Wife quilt - I'd use a single ply.

My best advice is to really study the letters in a font, see how much detail they have and decide how much work you want to put into stitching them.  My signature block here didn't take much work at all - one clean font, one color of floss, one easy stitch, one plain fabric ...

I hope I've convinced you that clean and simple doesn't mean a complete yawnfest either.  I think this font has loads of personality and interest.  I like the character it adds to my quilt.  And I like that my "label" has become part of the quilt top, instead of being hidden on the back.

Hope you find some stitching time this weekend.  Maybe dig out a quilt that hasn't been labelled yet ... ;)

What Do You Get When You Cross an Embroiderer with a Hole in Your Jeans?

You get a pretty new pair of pants!

I've seen many versions of this idea on Pinterest and - despite my strong aversion to mending - have been waiting very patiently for someone in my house to rip their jeans so I could give this a try. 

And by someone I mean not my husband.  I don't think he'd appreciate this sort of ... "fashionable solution" to a hole in his pants.  Just 'cause I can get him to eat from a lacy pink placemat doesn't mean he'll wear my embroidery!  Haha!

To do this mending job:

• make a "patch" by fusing lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of a piece of fabric (I used regular quilting cotton) and trim it with pinking shears
• pin the patch behind the hole with the right side of the fabric showing through
• freestyle random cross and star stitches - with 3 plies of floss - around the tear

Quick, easy, and totally fun.

And my daughter loves it (although she wishes the hole was bigger so she could see more of the pretty patch underneath ... I'm thinking the washing machine will take care of that).

I gave her carte blanche for fabric & color choices and she went for a subtle amethyst Japanese print.  I'm sure she'll pick something brighter next time ... she's already asked if I can fix all her future jean holes this way.

I've also mended leggings with machine applique ... (posted here).

No one is more surprised than me to discover that mending can be fun.

2012 Holiday Tag-a-Long Tutorial

Well hello there and thank you for stopping by!  This tutorial will show you the basic construction process for the Tag-a-Long gift tags Amy & myself are making for Christmas. 

Step 1:  Download this free PDF for the templates.

Step 2:  Round up the following items:

• 2 pieces of fabric at least as large as the template PLUS 1/4" extra on all sides for seam allowance
• 1 piece of medium weight fusible interfacing large enough to trace the tag template
• Pencil
• Fabric scissors
• Matching thread
• Tool to turn out corners (I use a bone folder)
• Package of eyelets (3/16" or 4mm) including the hole-punch and flattening tools
• Hammer
• 12" length of ribbon or string

Step 3:  Trace a template shape onto the fusible interfacing. 

Step 4:  Cut along the drawn line and fuse the interfacing tag to the wrong side of one fabric piece.

Step 5:  Lay both fabric pieces right sides together and pin.  Start stitching next to the interfacing edge near the bottom of one side.  Continue sewing around the interfacing shape but leave a 3" opening along the side. 

Then trim away the excess fabric leaving a 1/8" seam allowance - EXCEPT for along the opening, leave a 1/4" seam allowance (easier to tuck in later).

Tip:  Sew a few reinforcing stitches at both ends of the opening to help prevent them from coming undone when you turn the tag right side out.

Step 6:  Turn the tag right side out and use your corner tool to shape the edges & corners.  The interfacing shape will make this job easier.  Tuck the opening seam allowance inside and press the tag.  Hand-stitch the opening closed.

Step 7:  (Optional)  Top-stitch around the tag 1/8" from the edge.

Step 8:  To attach the eyelet, first use the punch tool & a hammer to make a hole in the fabric.  Just eyeball the location.

Then insert an eyelet into the hole and use the flattening tool & hammer to secure the eyelet in place.

Step 9:  Thread a ribbon or string through the eyelet.

Step 10:  Attach your homemade tag to a gift for someone special!

A few side notes.

If you like to keep the back side of your tag neat and tidy, I recommend adding your embellishments to the front side of the tag BEFORE Step 4.  That said, some bulkier items like large buttons should be added after your turn the tag right side out, but maybe before you stitch the side opening closed so you can hide knots and things inside.  Just be careful to center your designs.

And don't be afraid to use glue.  It goes a lot faster than using a needle and thread, especially when you end up with more great ideas than spare time!

How I Transfer Embroidery Designs onto Felt

There are several ways to transfer embroidery designs onto your stitching cloth.  When it comes to quilting cotton, I favor a light source and a Micron Pigma Pen.  However that won't work for felt because you can't SEE through it.

In Alicia's pattern, she tells you how to use dressmaker's chalk pencil, carbon paper, fabric marker & and iron-on transfer pencil.  I confess I've never tried that method.  For me old habits die hard because I'm still happy using the way my mom taught me when I was little using cheap and cheerful tissue paper.

You need:

• a pencil
• a few pins
• a sheet of tissue paper large enough to accommodate the design you are transferring (I just dug out a wrinkly used piece from my gift-wrapping supplies & ironed it smooth). 

Here's how:

Step 1 - Trace the design onto tissue paper.

I also trace parts of the outline as registration marks so I can line up the design accurately onto the felt.

Step 2 - Pin the tissue paper to the felt exactly where you want the embroidery to be situated.

Step 3 - Embroider your stitches through both layers of felt and tissue.

Step 4 - Remove the pins and GENTLY tear away the tissue paper.

You may find a pair of tweezers helpful for picking out some of the little stubborn bits of paper ...

especially within enclosed stitches or underneath satin stitches.

I just eyeballed the few sequin placements.

That's it!  Easy peasy.

I wrote a similar post last year when I was making this other felt ornament set, if you don't mind listening to me repeat myself repeat myself.

My Needles - A Primer

Yesterday I had a few questions about needles so I thought I'd write a post on the subject. 

Brand

There are a bazillion needle manufacturers out there ... and I never exaggerate. But my favorite needles are from Jeana Kimball. 

If you know anything about marketing, you would label me as a "brand loyal" sort of person.  Jeana's got needles for all my sewing needs, the quality is really nice, I never have trouble with them, I can find them locally ... and I love the cute little cases they come in.

Purpose

I have four types of needles in my sewing arsenal...

(not including the curved upholstery and super long soft sculpture needles from a bear-making class I took some 15 years ago)

... each for different uses.  Sharps, Straws, Betweens & Embroidery.  (Keep reading for an explanation of each.)

Size

As with other manufacturers, Jeana's needles are sized according to length.  I don't know why, but the bigger the number, the smaller the size.  I'm sure there's a very logical explanation for this nomenclature ...

Also, it's important to know that a #size of one type does NOT translate to the same size in another type. 

For example, see the difference between a size 11 Straw and a size 11 Betweens?

Does Size Really Matter?

That depends.  ;)  Lemme 'splain. 

If you find yourself trying a new sewing method and aren't sure what size needle to use, I know Jeana sells Sampler Packs - an envelope with one of each size of that type of needle.  The fact that Jeana and other manufacturers actually SELL Sampler Packs should tell you something.  I suggest getting one of these packs and trying out the different sizes.  Some people don't care.  But I've found that most stitchers who spend a lot of time with a needle in hand will develop preferences based on everything from the task to the size of their hand to their technique. 

Sharps

This is my "go-to" needle for general things like mending, reattaching buttons, that sort of thing.  I'm not really picky about size with these ... whatever I have on hand usually does the job. 

Although you can bet I've used Straw needles to hem pants and Betweens to sew on a button ... most of the time my mending needle is the first one I pull out of my pin cushion!  Major bonus for me if it's already threaded with the right color. ;)

Currently I have a package of size 9 Sharps in my drawer.  

I seem to go through a lot of these.  Not sure why.  I think there's a needle black hole somewhere in my house.  My husband used to find them with his feet ... a lot.  But since becoming a mom I'm better at keeping track of them ... sorta.

Straws

I only use these for applique.  They are thinner and tend to bend - which is a good thing for applique work.    I like size 11.

I've heard more than once these work great for hand-stitching quilt binding.

Betweens

These are designed for hand quilting.  Whereas Straw needles are very thin and long and therefore bendy, Betweens are thicker and shorter and much less flexible because they need to endure a lot of pressure from the thimble and being loaded with multiple, heavy stitches.  And after a lot of use, however, my Betweens will still develop a slight bend. 

Again, size 11 is my preference. 

Embroidery

I used to buy 11s but now I find my poor aging hands are more comfortable with the slightly longer 10s.

I've used 3 of my 4 needle types just for this one project:

Embroidery for the embroidery ...

Straw for the applique ...

and Betweens for the hand quilting ...

I only know about these needles because I've taken applique, hand-quilting and embroidery classes ... and used them all ... a lot.

Across the Pond Pouch Tutorial

Here is my tutorial on how to make a cute zippered pouch from this free Moda pattern called "Across the Pond Pouch" by Cabbages & Roses.

You will need to download & print the pattern first (for the template).  

SUPPLIES

• 36 squares, 2-1/2" x 2-1/2"
• 1 FQ (or 2 rectangles, at least 6" x 11")
• 1 zipper, 9" (dress weight, nonseparable)

• **2 squares, 2" x 2" (for zipper tabs)
• **2 batting scraps, at least 6-1/2" x 12-12"

**These items are not part of the original pattern, but I used them for my pouch and this tutorial shows you how to add them.

36 Squares

Since Christmas is fast approaching, I thought I'd do a little multi-tasking here - write a tutorial AND get some Christmas sewing done.  You don't mind, do you?  So I dug into my "Roman Holiday" (3 Sisters Moda) leftovers and cut my 36 squares.

To make the cutting go faster, I selected 18 prints and cut 2 squares from each print.  But you could just as easily cut all 36 squares from only 2 prints to make a true checkerboard or dive into your scrap bin and go crazy!

Fat Quarter

The pattern calls for a FQ for the lining, but you really only need 2 rectangles that are at least 6" x 11".  They don't even have to match.  I often 'scrap up' the inside of bags and cases.

9" Zipper

I favor dressweight zippers for a few reasons:

• teeth can be stitched over without breaking a needle
• easily cut/trimmed with scissors
• best variety of colors for matching to your fabric

I also suggest a non-separable zipper (doesn't open at the bottom).

**2 Squares, 2" x 2"

Here's a look at a zipper tab on my pouch - the little blue triangle patch of fabric. 

**2 Batting Scraps, 6-1/2" x 12-1/2"

I wanted my pouch to have a more quilted look so I added batting.  This is a great way to use up some of those trimmings from a quilt.

PATCHWORK ASSEMBLY

After you've cut your squares, lay 18 squares into 3 rows of 6 squares each. 

If you have any favorite prints, put them in the middle 4 spots of the top row (will be along the zipper) and the middle 4 spots of the middle the row.  The corner squares will all but disappear when the pouch is assembled.

Once you have the squares arranged, sew them together into 6 columns of 3 squares each.  I chain-pieced mine.

Press these seams in opposite directions to get nice nesting joints.

Now sew the 6 columns together.

Press the seams to one side.

Repeat to make another patchwork panel.  Your panels should measure 6-1/2" x 12-1/2" each.

**QUILTING THE PATCHWORK (Optional)

If you want to quilt your patchwork, now is the time to do it.  Simply lay one patchwork panel on a batting piece, pin in place and quilt as desired.  Repeat for the second panel.

I did a cross-hatch - simple and effective.  But really anything goes.

USING THE TEMPLATE

Trace the template onto a sheet of paper and cut it out.  Lay it on a patchwork panel - centered - and pin in place. 

Cut it out and repeat for the other patchwork panel.  The more accurate you are with centering the template, the easier it will be to line up your seams from one side of the pouch to the other.

And see what I mean about the corner squares almost disappearing?

Cut out 2 lining pieces with the template.  I layered mine and cut them both out at the same time.

I used a rotary cutter, but you can use scissors, if you prefer.

MAKING THE DARTS

If you've never sewn a dart, don't panic - they're super easy.  Trust me. ;)

Here's a dart cutout.

Take one patchwork piece and fold it - right sides together - so the two dart edges line up.  Pin.

Starting at the outside edge, sew a 1/4" seam - keep sewing a straight line past the cut point of the dart until you get to the folded edge. 

Press your dart seams towards the middle of the pouch.

Repeat for the other patchwork piece.

And both lining pieces.

**ADDING ZIPPER TABS - Optional

This next bit here is not in the pattern.  If you want to skip it, just scroll down to the ZIPPER INSTALLATION section.  It's ok.  We can still be friends. ;)

You need the 2 extra 2" squares.

Fold the squares in half and press.  Fold in half again and press.  This second fold is referred to as the "second folded edge".  Brought to you by the Queen of the Obvious. ;)

Lay the second folded edge to the inside of the metal tab on the bottom end of the zipper. (Right-side view)

Open the second folded edge and pin the fabric in place.  (Right-side view)

(Wrong-side view)

Sew along the fold mark.  (Right-side view)

(Wrong-side view) MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HIT THE METAL THINGY ON THE ZIPPER WITH YOUR NEEDLE ... IT WILL BREAK.  (Just sayin'.)

Refold the tab. 

Baste the raw edges.

To position the second tab, measure 7-1/2" from the fold of the first tab and mark that spot with a pin.  This is where the fold of the second tab will be located.

FIRST OPEN THE ZIPPER HALFWAY!  And keep it open.  Kay?

Attach the second tab the same way as the first.

Trim away the excess zipper.

 

ZIPPER INSTALLATION

All right.  Still with me?  Ok.  :)

First, attach your zipper foot to your sewing machine.

Fold the zipper in half and mark the center point with a pin.  With right sides together, lay the zipper along the top edge of one body piece - matching the center points - and pin in place. 

Pin the rest of the zipper to the body.

Sew the zipper to the body.

With right sides of the body (with the zipper) and lining together, center one lining piece and pin along the top edge. 

The zipper should be sandwiched between the patchwork and the lining.

Do not sew directly on top of your previous seam (red thread shown below).  Rather sew just a tiny bit towards the top edge (blue thread shown below).

You should have something that looks like this ...

Repeat the above to add the second body and lining pieces to the other side of the zipper.

Center the second body piece onto the zipper - right sides together - and pin in place.

Sew the second body to the zipper.

Next, center the second lining piece to the zipper - right sides together, and pin in place.

Sew the second lining to the zipper.

Now you should have something that looks like this ...

and this.

Press the body pieces and the lining pieces away from the zipper.

FORMING THE POUCH

Home stretch. :)

Now you're going to place the patchwork pieces right sides together,

and the lining pieces right sides together. 

Pin all the way around, doing your best to line up the darts and patchwork seams. 

The zipper will be a little weird so try to make the teeth go towards the patchwork side and the seam allowances towards the lining side.

Leaving a 4" opening along the bottom of the lining, sew all the way around the entire pouch, lining and patchwork.

When you get to the zipper teeth, stop with your needle down and do a little pivot to make a "V". 

Trim the "V" point seam allowances.

Turn the entire pouch right side out through the 4" opening.

Stitch the opening closed, either by hand or machine.  (I'm lazy.)

Turn the lining into the pouch.

Add a little scrap of fabric or a ribbon to the zipper pull.

Tada!!!

Now go make a few dozen.

You will be fully stocked with lovely hostess/teacher/friend/neighbor/mother/daughter gifts for the entire Christmas season!